Pukaskwa Redux: Revisiting and Reconnecting with Superior’s Wild North Shore

Mark Smyk, M.Sc., P. Geo. From August 11-24, 2025 I had the pleasure of serving as the Canadian Federation of Earth Sciences (CFES) and Parks Canada’s fourth Geologist-in-Residence (GIR) at Pukaskwa National Park. I worked closely with Carly Robillard, Pukaskwa’s Interpretation Officer and Coordinator to deliver geology-based educational experiences to Park visitors and Parks Canada staff.  I was encouraged to apply for Pukaskwa’s GIR Program when a number of my friends and colleagues on Facebook forwarded me the Call for Applications. It would provide me with an opportunity to revisit and reconnect with the Park and that stretch of Lake Superior shoreline where I had worked for over three decades. It had been almost twenty years since my last visit to the Park – a field trip that Tom Muir and I co-led for fellow Ontario Geological Survey (OGS) geologists. (Tom had mapped this area for the OGS in 1977.) I had first worked in the area in 1983 (the same year that Pukaskwa officially opened), based in a tent camp 3 km east of the Visitor Centre, a young geologist employed to look for gold during the height of the Hemlo rush. A few years later, I began my career with the OGS and had the good fortune of visiting the new Park and marveling at its geology. You could argue that the Park’s geology isn’t unique – similar rocks occur elsewhere along the North Shore – but they are rarely exposed as well as they are in Pukaskwa. With that in mind, I began to prepare for my long-overdue return to Pukaskwa, eager to share my passion for the local geology. I was eager to revisit spots I had fondly remembered from my earlier visits. I hiked the four front-country trails (Beach, Southern Headland, Manito Miikana and Bimose Kinoomagewnan) and walked the main access road, describing, photographing, and geo-referencing geologic features. Some of these sites would later be featured on subsequent Guided Hikes/Walks on the Southern Headland and North Beach trails. I hope to compile all of the collected site descriptions to form the basis of a self-guided, geology field trip guidebook that could be provided to future GIRs, Park staff and visitors.  It was a busy two weeks at Pukaskwa! My visitor-based activities included: While these formal activities involved over 200 participants in total, I had many other informal conversations as I hiked throughout the Park, with both new and returning visitors. Fellow geologists, professional photographers and educators were among those I met who came to hike, camp and enjoy all that the Park has to offer. The Drop-In sessions invited visitors to try a variety of activities that demonstrated the properties of minerals and rocks, and how those properties help us to identify them and utilize them in everyday life. There was much interest in “Yooperlites”, fluorescent sodalite-bearing syenites from near Marathon that are found as beach pebbles in Ontario and Upper Michigan. Interest in these rocks has not waned since they started making headlines in the United States almost ten years ago. I collected some of this syenite from a rock cut on Highway 17 and gave some keen visitors pieces to take home. Drop-In Session near Visitor Centre, showing table with rock and mineral samples, books and maps, as well as a gold panning station One of the many pleasant surprises during the Drop-In sessions was the visit of Robin Heron, Pukaskwa’s former Park Manager, with whom I had worked on a regional steering committee in the 1990’s. It was great to reconnect with her after 30 years and reminisce about our time together back then! I also saw a few familiar faces on my last Walk and Talk. Friends from Thunder Bay and Terrace Bay made the trip to Pukaskwa just to take part in this event. Two members of Science North’s “Bluecoats” visiting outreach team also took part and shared enthusiastic messages and photos with other members of their team while they were on the walk! I had the good fortune to connect with Park Guardian, Binaeshee-Quae, and seven other community members from nearby Biigtigong Nishnaabeg First Nation who had questions about Grandfather Stones and selecting locally sourced stones to be used in sweat lodges. The conversation was fluid, touching upon local geology, mining history and other subjects. I let them know that they could contact me should they have any follow-up questions or require any information in the future. Photos taken by members of the Science North’s Bluecoats during the Walk and Talk on North Beach (photos courtesy of Emily Kerton, Science North) My time as Pukaskwa’s GIR was thoroughly rewarding for a number of reasons. It allowed me, after a great many years, to revisit an area that I had always enjoyed exploring and working in. I was able to interpret and document the varied Park geology and discover new things along the way. It gave me the opportunity to share my passion for geology with a wider audience and reconnect with friends and former colleagues. I was also able to introduce Pukaskwa to my family, who want to return in the near future. I hope that everyone that was involved in the 2025 GIR program – organizers, staff and visitors alike – gained something from the experience. I know I did. Thank you, all! Merci! Miigwetch!  In closing, I’d like to share a poem I wrote some years ago that was inspired by my time on the North Shore. I think it is a fitting epilogue to my time at Pukaskwa.  Our land bears silent witness of all that has come before billions of years of creation and destruction darkness and light ever so slowly, changing still. A fragile crust formed by fire cooled by primordial rains worn away to dust by wind and water and time. Quiet, ancient seas belied the unceasing turmoil below tearing apart this rocky shell leaving ice and the Lake to heal its fiery wound. Water upon rock time and again.

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Text reads: Geoscience Today. Pukaskwa National Park: A geological gem in the northern ontario landscape.

Pukaskwa National Park: A Geological Gem in the Northern Ontario Landscape

Author: Cyndy Broughton, Minerals Engineering Technologist The APGO Education Foundation is pleased to support the Geologist-in-Residence program at Pukaskwa National Park. Gazing out over the calm waters of Hattie Cove near the visitor centre at Pukaskwa National Park, I realized the allure of the park. Many of the people that I had recently met during my walks around the park were repeat visitors, coming back year after year to experience the wonders of nature. Some visitors travelled thousands of kilometers each year to experience the solitude and beauty that the park has to offer. Some came to relax and enjoy family time; others came to paddle the waters of Lake Superior or hike the many trails in the park. My goal that day was to help park visitors view the vistas of Pukaskwa through the lens of geology. In August 2024, I had the opportunity of being the Geologist-in-Residence at this beautiful national park located on the shores of Lake Superior near the community of Marathon, Ontario. My last visit to Pukaskwa National Park was in 1984 as a young geological technologist enjoying a day off from work and taking the opportunity to swim in the clear waters of Lake Superior. Now I was returning at the invitation of the Canadian Federation of Earth Sciences and Parks Canada near the end of a career spent mostly in geological education. The role of the Geologist-in-Residence (GIR) program is to highlight the significant geological evidence and history on display within the park and increase public awareness and appreciation of geoscience. The mandate of Parks Canada is to protect and present nationally significant examples of Canada’s natural heritage. Parks Canada’s goal, written in its vision statement, is to make Canada’s treasured natural and historic places a living legacy, connecting hearts and minds to a stronger, deeper understanding of the very essence of Canada. Two of the guiding principles that govern the system of national parks are Education and Presentation and Human-Environment Relationship. Successful natural interpretive programs allow park visitors to discover and learn about ecosystems. Sharing knowledge about sustainability and the connections between people and our environment are important tools in ensuring that our efforts to protect our natural heritage are successful. When we provide the opportunity to experience nature and we share knowledge of ecosystems, we can foster the desire in citizens to protect and appreciate the world around us. To understand the very essence of Canada, we need to share geoscience knowledge, as well as knowledge of wildlife and botany. The geology of our country is literally the ground beneath our feet. Knowledge of geology can help make connections to soil formation, biodiversity, water quality, mineral resources, energy resources, and so much more. The Geologist-in-Residence program is an important program that helps to develop interpretive geology hikes and drop-in sessions where visitors to the park are invited to engage in interactive, hands-on programs. Programming is developed by geoscience educators to help park staff share the geological wonders of the park. This year’s guided hike to Pukaskwa National Parks North Beach helped visitors travel back through geological time to explore the formation of the 2.7-billion-year-old rocks. We discussed the formation of the Lake Superior basin through mid-continent rifting 1 billion years ago and ended our hike examining the impact that glaciation had on the rocks and sand deposits along the coast. During drop-in sessions, we tested the chemistry of Lake Superior waters and connected our results to the geology of the Canadian Shield. Children had the chance to learn basic rock and mineral identification skills and were able to apply those skills when they explored the rocks on the hike. With the assistance of Parks Canada Interpretation Officer and Coordinator Carly Robillard, the support of the Canadian Federation of Earth Sciences (CFES), and the financial support of the APGO Education Foundation, my time spent at Pukaskwa National Park was a rewarding experience that offered me the opportunity to showcase the geological wonders of the park and help visitors make those important connections between geology and world around us. Cyndy Broughton is a Minerals Engineering Technologist and a Professor with 36 years of experience teaching geology and environmental science at Fleming College. She encourages everyone, young and old, to head outside and discover the connections between geology and the living world.

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